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May 2005 - Deepa Panchamia - Layers of Meaning: An Interview with Deepa Panchamia |
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Layers of Meaning Orginating from a degree in Decorative Arts, Deepa Panchamia proves that fashion is an art form. Her collection is breath-taking, her ideas unique and her determination is evident. Deepa lectures on her own practice and runs workshops for GCSE, A-level and University art students in the UK, and this is just the beginning……. Describe your work and what message you were trying to convey with your recent collection? Combining silk organzas and leathers with inventive pleating techniques I create mesmerising fabrics that are constructed around the female form, producing an unconventional range of evening and bridal wear. My collection includes a series of energetic structural dresses/outfits made entirely of cut layered pleats and tiny-pocketed constructions; headpieces named ‘Snoods’ that cocoon the wearer; and indoor footwear that cushion the feet. I create one-off exclusive pieces or commission based work that answer to specific requirements. I initially started off making art pieces and interior hangings. Eventually I experimented with making more functional art such as clothing. Primarily concerned with shape and structure it was not necessary to create flattering outfits that enhanced the female form. Certain elements of my clothing compliment the female form, whereas other elements present new shapes that depict an expansion from the natural form. I experiment with the different ways the structural fabric can hang around the body, using the body as a vehicle to display my work. I enjoy working in fashion, as it gives my pieces a more functional purpose and brings them alive. All my pieces are hand-made using machine stitch, folding, pleating and cutting into the fabrics. I intentionally use a limited range of subtle colours that allow shadows to form on the surface. This adds to the linear motion and enhances the structure. I allow the structures to evolve through a series of stages, making the fabric and form equally expressive. As a collection – a combination of rhythmic structures with subtle colours – the work radiates a natural quality that is calming and relaxing. Since graduating how hard have you found it to establish yourself as an artist/designer? The process has been very difficult and still is. After graduating I felt quite lost and I didn’t know where to start. There were many opportunities available, however it was difficult to decide which ones were worthwhile. In the end you take risks, attempt as much as possible and find out what works out best. As soon as I graduated I joined Hidden Art – a non-for-profit organisation which supports and promotes design talent in London. They hold networking sessions, and have offered me guidance and advice that has been really helpful. However, mostly you learn from own experiences. I took part in many group and solo art exhibitions/fashion shows where I built good contacts, received publicity and secured commission work. Each event taught me either ‘what to do’ or ‘what not to do’. And this process has continued. You stayed in India for a couple of months, how did your stay influence your work? I recently spent four-months teaching in India at ‘Veerayatan Vidyapeeth’ a hostel in Jakhania, Kutch. This was a complete break from my art career. Working Monday to Saturday intensely from 7.30am till 10pm at night, gave me little time to think about anything other than the children and my job there. The hostel was located in the middle of a desert; therefore we would try to complete the week’s work so we would have our Sunday free to explore the nearby villages. During these Sundays we would make long journeys to the city or the beach. I gathered visual inspiration from shells and the calming effect of the sea. I would use the long bus journeys to think about my collection – designing ideas in my head. I feel that the remote surroundings I lived in influenced the serene qualities present in my collection. What's the best piece of advice you've been given? Probably that the most important thing in any career is networking. Not to hope that one-day you will be discovered but to make contacts and to exploit every possible opportunity so that you are guaranteed to be discovered. Notes Deepa Panchamia graduated with a First Class Honours from a Decorative Arts degree at Nottingham Trent University in 2004. Exhibitions include: ‘Deepa Panchamia: Layers of meanings’ at Opium’s Soul Boutique, London (April 2005); ‘Swatch Alternative Fashion Week’ at the Old Truman Brewery, London (March 2005); ‘Lustre: Contemporary Craft Makers’ Market’ at Lakeside Arts Centre, Nottingham (Nov 2004); ‘Deepa Panchamia: Pleated Structures’ at Fabrications, London (Sept 2004); ‘New Designers 2004’ at Business Design Centre, London (July 2004); ‘Decorative Arts 2004’ at Bonington Gallery, Nottingham (June 2004) and ‘Innovation: Creative Design’ at Djanogly Theatre, Nottingham (Jan 2003). For further information on the Deepa Panchamia collection visit: http://www.hiddenart.com/designer-makers/fashion-and-accessories/deepa-panchamia To see more images of the Deepa Panchamia collection visit: http://www.pbase.com/singlo/fashion_group_shots http://www.pbase.com/singlo/opium_red For commissions, interviews contact Deepa Panchamia email: deepapanchamia@yahoo.co.uk
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